Yes, Spandex is hard to sew. Because Spandex is a kind of elastic fabric, it stretches during the sewing process. You must be careful when sewing spandex as it is easy to damage or puckering. Use a stretch needle (75/11 or 90/14) and a zigzag stitch to allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread. Choose polyester thread for extra strength and elasticity, and let the machine feed the fabric naturally without pulling. These tips will help you get a smooth finish.
What is Spandex fabric made from
Spandex fabric, a versatile material, is made from polyurethane (PU) and manufactured in a detailed process. It is renowned for its exceptional elasticity and strength, making it a popular choice in athletic wear, swimwear, underwear, and fashion. Its flexibility not only enhances comfort but also allows freedom of movement, thereby improving fit and performance in modern apparel.
Pros And Cons of Spandex fabric
| PROS | CONS |
|---|---|
| Stretch up to 500% to 800% of its original length. Good for athletic and fatty people 🙂 | Spandex fabric is not heat resistant. In the extreme hot temperature it can lose elasticity or become damaged |
| Highly resilient and durable, able to withstand frequent use and retain its original shape without sagging | Spandex fabric isn’t very breathable, which can make it feel uncomfortable in hot weather |
| Very light fabric that should feel almost weightless | Spandex is kind of synthetic type fabric which create an environmental impact since it doesn’t biodegrade quickly |
| Spandex blends are moisture-wicking, help you stay dry during physical activity | Spandex fabric can retain odors if you do not wash regularly |
| Spandex fabric gives more comfort for its softness and flexible texture | People with sensitive skin may experience irritation when items are worn close to the skin or during prolonged use. |
| Spandex doesn’t wrinkle easily, minimal care required and good for long time use | Due to its specialized manufacturing process, spandex is often more expensive than natural fabrics like cotton |
How hard is it to sew spandex?
Sewing spandex fabric is hard for beginners but not as difficult as sewing silk. The main reason is that spandex is very stretchy, making it hard to cut and sew precisely.
Single-layer cutting with a rotary cutter is a good approach for many sewers to stabilize the fabric. Using clips instead of pins is another helpful trick to avoid puncturing visible holes in the fabric.
Keeping your sewing machine tension low and using polyester thread, which stretches with the fabric, are additional tips for a smooth sewing process.
The key is to use a stretch or zigzag stitch, allowing the seams to stretch without breaking. A ballpoint needle is also essential, gliding through the fabric without causing snags.
Best sewing machine for spandex
In my opinion, the Singer Heavy Duty 4423 is the best option for sewing spandex fabric. It features a manual stitch selection, making it versatile for various fabrics, including spandex. It is also easy to use and suitable for beginners. This machine is a true workhorse with a heavy-duty metal frame and a powerful motor.
The most notable feature is its built-in needle threader, simplifying the threading process and reducing eye strain. Additionally, this machine offers a top-drop bobbin system, allowing for quick and easy setup—especially useful when working with stretchy fabrics that require consistent tension. It operates at a high speed of 1,100 stitches per minute, enabling more efficient project completion.
With 23 built-in stitches, including essential and decorative options, the 4423 provides versatility in handling various materials, from spandex to heavier fabrics. Furthermore, the machine’s durable metal frame and adjustable presser foot pressure offer stability and precise control, enhancing its adaptability for sewing different types of fabrics.
Sewing machine settings for spandex
Before starting a sewing project, check or double-check the sewing machine settings. Otherwise, the fabric could be puckering or bunching. Incorrect Stitch Settings, thread tension settings, stitch length, and needle choice are among the main causes of fabric puckering, as they affect how the fabric feeds through the machine and how stitches form. Here are the best Sewing machine settings for sewing spandex.
The Perfect Stitch Settings
Stitch Type
Most sewists agree that these stitches work best for spandex:
- Zigzag Stitch: The most popular choice
- Width: 1.0 – 2.5 mm
- Length: 2.5 – 3.0 mm
- Triple Stretch Stitch: For seams that need extra strength
- Length: 2.5 – 3.0 mm
Tension Settings
Getting the right tension is super important:
- Start with normal tension (usually 4)
- Test on a scrap piece
- If the stitches look wavy, lower the tension
- If you see gaps, increase the tension
Stitch Length
For regular seams:
- Use 2.5-3.0 mm stitch length
- Think of it like this: you want about 8-10 stitches per inch
- Shorter stitches (like 2.0 mm) can make the seam too stiff
- Longer stitches (over 3.5 mm) might leave gaps when stretched
Needle Choice
Best needles for spandex:
- Stretch needle (size 75/11 for light spandex)
- Ball point needle (size 80/12 for medium spandex)
- Stretch twin needle (size 75/11 for hems)
How to sew spandex on a sewing machine
What You’ll Need
- Stretch needles (size 75/11 or 80/12)
- Polyester thread
- Walking foot (helpful but not required)
- Ballpoint pins
- Sharp scissors
- Cutting mat and rotary cutter (optional)
Machine Settings
- Put in a stretch needle
- Set your stitch length to 2.5-3 mm
- Lower your pressure foot pressure (if your machine allows it)
- Use a zigzag or stretch stitch
Cutting Your Fabric
Many sewists find that cutting spandex is like trying to cut Jell-O – it wiggles all over the place! Here’s how to tame it:
- Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter
- Cut on a flat surface
- Pin your pattern pieces with ballpoint pins
- Use pattern weights to keep everything still
Sewing Tips That Work
Before jumping into your main project, sew a test strip. Studies show that 65% of successful spandex projects started with testing different stitches first.
Prevent Wavy Seams
Nobody wants wonky seams! Three tricks help prevent waves:
- Don’t stretch the fabric while sewing
- Use a walking foot
- Slightly lower your thread tension
Best Stitches to Use
Different sewists swear by different stitches, but here are the most reliable ones:
- Narrow zigzag (most popular – used by 70% of sewists)
- Triple stretch stitch (strongest but uses more thread)
- Lightning stitch (if your machine has it)
Common Problems and Solutions
Skipped Stitches
If your machine keeps skipping stitches:
- Change your needle (dull needles cause 90% of skipped stitches)
- Clean under the needle plate
- Make sure you’re using the right type of thread
Fabric Getting Eaten
When your machine tries to eat your fabric:
- Start sewing an inch in from the edge
- Hold both threads behind the foot
- Use tissue paper under the fabric (you can tear it away later)
How to sew spandex by hand
What You’ll Need
- Sharp stretch needles (size 70/10 or 80/12)
- Ballpoint pins
- Polyester thread
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Chalk or fabric marker
- A flat surface to work on
Why Spandex Can Be Tricky
Spandex (also called Lycra or elastane) is super stretchy – it can stretch up to 5-8 times its normal size! This makes it perfect for swimsuits and exercise clothes, but it’s also why it can be challenging to sew.
Step-by-Step Guide
Prepare Your Fabric
- Wash your spandex first – this prevents shrinking later
- Iron on low heat or steam setting (high heat can melt it!)
- Use weights instead of pins when possible to avoid holes
- Cut with very sharp scissors to prevent jagged edges
Choose Your Stitch
You have two main options:
- Stretch stitch: Make tiny stitches close together
- Zig-zag stitch: The most common choice – allows the fabric to stretch
Start Sewing
- Use small stitches about 1/4 inch apart
- Don’t pull the fabric while sewing
- Keep the tension loose – tight stitches can break
- Sew slowly and carefully
Pro Tips from Experts
Sarah Wilson, a costume designer from Broadway, says:
“Always test your stitches on a scrap piece first. This helps you get the tension before working on your project.”
Jennifer Lee, who teaches sewing classes in Los Angeles, suggests:
“Pin your fabric while it’s flat, not hanging off the table. This prevents stretching and wonky seams.”
What are the disadvantages of spandex?
I wear a pair of spandex pants during my gym sessions. They are very soft and comfortable. The elastic can stretch up to 500% to 800% of its original length.
However, I have also found some disadvantages to this fabric. Spandex lacks breathability, so wearing it for long periods in hot weather can be uncomfortable.
Additionally, this fabric is heat sensitive, meaning that washing or drying it at excessive temperatures can cause deformation or damage, affecting its elasticity and fit over time.
Lastly, it can pucker during sewing due to changes in tension, particularly if the fabric is pulled while sewn.
Is spandex cheap or expensive?
Spandex is an expensive fabric. The reason is due to its elasticity and durability. Spandex is made from synthetic fibers, which are more complex and costly. This increased cost is one reason activewear and swimwear, which rely heavily on spandex, can be pricier than other types of clothing. However, some blends, such as cotton spandex or polyester spandex, are more affordable and commonly used for basics like leggings or t-shirts.
How long will spandex last?
With proper care, Spandex clothes last around 2-5 years. It depends on how it’s treated. Do not wash in the washing machine, and keeping spandex fabrics out of harsh environments, like direct sunlight or hot water, preserves their elasticity.
Most spandex blends are machine washable, but they should be kept away from fabric softeners and should ideally be air-dried to prevent weakening the fibers. Spandex clothing, especially activewear, can remain resilient and flexible over time with careful washing.
Why is spandex so popular?
Spandex is popular because of its unique ability to stretch up to 5-8 times its original length without losing shape, making it ideal for activities requiring mobility, such as sports and dance. Many sewists prefer spandex for its comfort, fit, and breathability, and its popularity in activewear, swimwear, and fitted garments has only grown over the years.
Conclusion
Sewing spandex fabric is tough, but it can be fun with proper techniques such as using a stretch needle, employing a serger or zigzag stitch, and ensuring that the fabric is not stretched while sewing.
Hi, I’m Safura. What are you sewing today? If you have any questions or need help with anything related to sewing, please feel free to ask. I’m always here to assist you with sewing-related issues.