Yes, denim fabric is hard to sew because it is a thick, sturdy material. But with your determination and the right tools- a 90/14 needle, a stitch length of 3.0 mm to 4.0 mm, and polyester thread for regular seams- you can conquer this challenge. With its rugged texture, diagonal ribbing pattern, and exceptional strength, Denim fabric is a unique choice for creating durable clothing, particularly jeans and jean jackets. Choosing the right needle, stitch length, and thread type can simplify the process of sewing denim fabrics.
Why Denim is Hard to Sew
Sewing denim isn’t easy due to its thickness, which often requires a special needle-like Jeans Needle (90/14)). Unlike lighter fabrics, Denim resists needle penetration, so a heavy-duty sewing machine is essential.
The fabric’s weight can make sewing difficult, so for a professional finish, use a strong thread like polyester or a heavier weight (40wt or 30wt) to match the Denim’s durability.
With the right preparation and tools, even beginners can sew denim projects, making stylish, durable garments and accessories.
Is Denim Hard to Sew by Hand?
Sewing denim by hand can be done, but it requires effort and patience. Regular needles might bend or break. You’ll need a strong, sharp needle like a jeans needle. Your fingers can get sore. To protect your finger, use a thimble. The good news is that mistakes are less visible on Denim, and the fabric doesn’t slip while sewing. Also, you don’t need fancy equipment.
How to sew Denim By hand (Step By Step)
Essentials Tools
- Heavy-duty needles (size 14-16)
- Strong thread (polyester or heavy-duty cotton)
- Thimble to protect your fingers
- Sharp scissors
- Beeswax for strengthening thread
- Fabric marking chalk or pencil
- Ruler or measuring tape
- Small hammer
- Safety pins
Step 1: Prepare Your Thread
- Cut your thread about arm’s length (18-24 inches)
- If using beeswax:
- Run the thread over the beeswax 2-3 times
- Press with a warm iron to melt the wax into the thread
- This makes your thread stronger and less likely to tangle
Step 2: Set Up Your Needle
- Push the thread through the needle’s eye
- Pull the thread so both ends are even
- Tie the ends together with a double knot
- Now you have a double-thickness thread for extra strength
Step 3: Basic Hand Stitching Techniques
Running Stitch (The Easiest)
- Push the needle up through the fabric from back to front
- Move forward about 1/4 inch
- Push the needle down through the fabric
- Continue this up-and-down pattern
- Keep stitches even and straight
- Best for: Simple seams and temporary stitching
Backstitch (The Strongest)
- Make one stitch forward
- Bring the needle back half a stitch length
- Push the needle up through the fabric
- Move forward past your first stitch
- Repeat this pattern
- Best for: Seams that need strength
Tips for Both Stitches
- Use a thimble to protect your finger when pushing the needle
- Keep stitches about 1/4 inch long
- Pull the thread snug but not too tight
Step 4: Dealing with Thick Seams
- Mark your seam line with chalk
- Pin fabric pieces together
- Use the hammer to flatten thick areas before sewing
- Take extra care around belt loops and pockets
- Go slowly through multiple layers
Step 5: Finishing Your Stitches
- Make three tiny stitches in the same spot
- Create a small loop with your thread
- Pass the needle through the loop
- Pull tight to create a knot
- Repeat for extra security
- Trim thread close to knot
Tips & Tricks
Project Tips
For Hemming Jeans
- Fold and pin the hem in place
- Iron the fold for a crisp edge
- Use backstitch for durability
- Space stitches 1/4 inch apart
For Patching Holes
- Cut patch 1 inch larger than the hole
- Pin patch behind the hole
- Turn edges under
- Stitch around edges using backstitch
- Add criss-cross stitches for strength
Safety Reminders
- Always push the needle away from your body
- Keep fingers away from needlepoint
- Take breaks every 30 minutes
- Work in good lighting
- Keep tools away from small children
Time-Saving Tricks
- Pre-mark all your stitch lines
- Use safety pins instead of straight pins
- Work on a table at a comfortable height
- Keep tools organized and close by
- Do similar tasks together (like all straight seams first)
Pros and Cons of Denim Fabric
PROS | CONS |
---|---|
Good for daily use, even with heavy wear denim clothing like jeans to last for years. | Denim production has a significant environmental impact. |
Denim is easy to style for both casual and formal settings. | Denim requires careful washing and maintenance. |
Modern denim often includes a bit of stretch, providing comfort and flexibility. | The initial stiffness and weight can be uncomfortable, which may not suit everyone. |
Denim comes in various types, like acid-wash, raw, and selvedge. | High-quality and sustainable denim options, such as organic or selvedge denim, can be expensive. |
Can a Normal Sewing Machine Sew Denim?
Yes, most regular sewing machines can sew lighter Denim using the right settings. However, a more powerful machine or accessories like a walking foot can help prevent fabric slippage for heavyweight Denim. To tackle thick seams, using a “hump jumper” can level seams and improve stitching quality.
Do I Need a Special Needle to Sew Denim?
Yes, a denim needle, usually 90/14 or 100/16, is highly recommended for sewing denim. These specialized needles are sharper, thicker, and more durable than standard needles, making them ideal for piercing through multiple layers of thick Denim without bending or breaking. Using the right needle helps ensure cleaner, stronger stitches and prevents potential damage to your sewing machine.
Does Denim Rip Easily?
Denim is famously durable and highly tearing-resistant due to its tightly woven, thick fibers. However, denim edges can still fray, especially along seams. To prevent fraying and extend the life of your denim garment, it’s recommended to finish the seams with a zigzag stitch or use a serger. This finishing touch reinforces the fabric and preserves its longevity, making Denim a long-lasting choice for clothing.
Can a Singer Sewing Machine Sew Denim?
Singer sewing machines vary in strength, with many standard models suited for light to medium-weight Denim. For heavy-duty Denim, using a model specifically designed for thicker fabrics is best. To ensure smoother sewing on Denim, select the appropriate needle, adjust the machine’s tension, and sew slowly over thicker seams. These adjustments help any machine perform better on Denim, enhancing stitch quality and preventing needle breakage.
What Tension Should I Use for Denim?
For sewing denim, set your machine’s tension slightly higher than regular fabrics, usually starting around a setting of 4. Test on a scrap piece to ensure even stitches without puckering. Adjusting to a higher tension helps the needle penetrate multiple layers of thick Denim more effectively, creating smooth, consistent stitches.
What Thread is Used for Denim?
For sewing denim, a strong polyester thread is ideal for standard seams as it provides greater durability than cotton thread. For topstitching, a thicker topstitching or upholstery thread is often used to create a bolder, more visible line while adding extra strength. However, it’s recommended not to use topstitching thread in the bobbin, as this can lead to jams or uneven stitching. This combination enhances both the durability and appearance of denim garments.
What Type of Stitch is Used for Denim?
For sewing denim, a longer stitch length—typically around 3.0 to 3.5 mm—is recommended to accommodate the fabric’s thickness and prevent puckering. Reinforced stitches, such as backstitching or bar tacking, are essential for added durability, especially at stress points like pockets, seams, and belt loops. These stitch types help denim garments withstand regular wear and increase their strength and longevity.
Which Needle is Used for Denim?
A denim or jeans needle is recommended for sewing denim, as it is specifically reinforced with a sharp point to penetrate multiple layers of thick fabric without bending or breaking. Use a size 90/14 needle for lighter-weight Denim, while a size 100/16 needle is better suited for heavier Denim. This choice of needle size and type ensures smoother stitching and reduces the risk of skipped stitches, helping to maintain seam strength on denim garments.
Is Denim Tougher than Leather?
Both Denim and leather are durable materials, but leather generally has a higher tensile strength, giving it superior resistance to tearing and stretching compared to Denim. However, Denim is typically easier to work with on a regular sewing machine and doesn’t require the specialized tools or heavy-duty needles often needed for leather. This makes Denim a more accessible choice for DIY projects, while leather is preferred for items requiring exceptional durability, like jackets and accessories.
Is Denim Heavier than Cotton?
Denim is typically heavier than standard cotton fabrics, mainly due to its high thread count and the density of its twill weave, which adds significant weight. While lightweight denim options are available, standard Denim usually weighs around 10-12 ounces per yard, making it much heavier than typical cotton fabrics, which average about 5-6 ounces per yard. This added weight contributes to Denim’s durability and rugged feel, setting it apart from lighter cotton materials.
Conclusion
While sewing denim fabric can be hard, it’s possible with the right tools and techniques. Investing in a sturdy needle-thicker thread and adjusting your machine settings for tension and stitch length can make the process smoother. Denim’s durability and classic style make it worthwhile, especially if you’re prepared to handle its unique challenges.
Hi, I’m Safura. What are you sewing today? If you have any questions or need help with anything related to sewing, please feel free to ask. I’m always here to assist you with sewing-related issues.