No, Sewing a Lace fabric is not that hard if you sew it by hand, but you need to be careful when sewing. Because Lace is often lightweight and fragile, making it prone to fraying and distortion. Additionally, some Laces are slippery in touch, so Pins may not hold the fabric securely, leading to shifting during stitching. Lace fabric has intricate designs, so the marking patterns with pens or chalk do not show well. So, I would say that Lace is easy to sew, but you need to be careful when sewing.
What is Lace Made Of
Lace fabric is commonly made from cotton, although silk and linen are also used. Cotton lace is widely available and often used for tablecloths, curtains, doilies, and other decorative items. Silk lace, known for its gorgeous appearance, is more expensive and typically reserved for formal wear and bridal garments.
Before starting to sew, identify the type of lace which affects the sewing process. Cotton, silk, and polyester lace are easy to work with and don’t require extra care due to their forgiving nature. However, Chantilly, Alençon, and Guipure lace are more challenging because of their delicate structure and intricate designs, so extra care is needed when sewing them.
What is lace fabric used for
Lace fabric is used in fashion, crafts, home decor, and DIY projects. It adds elegance to bridal wear, casual clothing, lingerie, and accessories like shawls, collars, and brooches. Lace is also popular in home decor and is featured in curtains, table linens, and upholstery. In crafts, it enhances projects like scrapbooking, greeting cards, and gift wrapping with a decorative touch.
Types of lace fabric
There are many types of lace available, each suited for different purposes. Some laces are used on clothing, others in home decor, and some for crafting or decorative items.
The most common lace is Chantilly lace, known for its floral patterns and popularity in bridal gowns. Embroidered lace, decorated with sequins and beads, adds a festive touch and is often used in special attire.
Below are lace types and their typical uses:
Chantilly Lace: From Chantilly, France, this lightweight lace has floral patterns and is often used in bridal gowns. Its sheer quality is perfect for overlays and evening wear.
Guipure Lace: Heavier and without a net background, Guipure lace features raised designs linked by braids. Common in dresses, blouses, and outerwear.
Lyon Lace: Made from pure cotton on lightweight tulle, Lyon lace is often chosen for wedding gowns.
Corded Lace: Outlined with a cord for a 3D effect, this lace is versatile for wedding dresses or decorative overlays.
Embroidered Lace: Intricately stitched designs, often embellished with beads and sequins, make it popular for evening wear and special occasions.
Alençon Lace: Needlepoint lace from Alençon, France, with floral designs on a sheer background, favored in wedding dresses.
Eyelet Lace: Lightweight cotton with stitched holes, usually in flower-like designs, ideal for summer clothes and children’s wear.
Knit Lace: Soft, without a tulle backing, allowing it to contour to the body, used in casual wear and lingerie.
Filet Lace: Handmade with a grid pattern creating motifs, used in home decor with historical roots.
Leaver Lace: Often called the “Rolls-Royce” of laces, Leaver lace is detailed and common in lingerie and light garments.
Rashel Lace: A thicker, durable lace with rich patterns, commonly found in everyday clothing.
3D Lace: Made using 3D printing and traditional techniques, offering intricate three-dimensional patterns for modern fashion.
How to sew lace on a sewing machine
What You’ll Need
- Sewing machine
- The lace you want to use
- Matching thread
- Sharp scissors
- Pins or fabric clips
- A pressing cloth
- Test fabric scraps
- Wash-away stabilizer (optional but helpful)
Choosing the Right Lace
Not all lace is created equal! Light and delicate laces like Chantilly work best for clothing, while sturdier Guipure lace is perfect for home decor. Sarah Johnson, a professional seamstress with 15 years of experience, says, “The key is matching your lace weight to your base fabric – you wouldn’t want heavy lace on delicate silk!”
Sewing Machine Settings
- Use a new needle – size 60/8 or 70/10 works best for delicate lace
- Lower your stitch length to 1.5-2.0mm
- Reduce presser foot pressure slightly
- Consider using your machine’s walking foot
Fun fact: Modern sewing machines can handle lace much better than older models. The Brother Sewing Institute reports that newer machines reduce lace damage by up to 60% compared to machines from the 1990s.
Let’s Sewing
Testing First
Always test on scraps! Pin a small piece of lace to your test fabric and try different stitches. This helps you avoid mistakes on your actual project.
Preparing Your Lace
- Press your lace gently with a pressing cloth
- Cut it to size, leaving an extra 1/2 inch all around
- Pin or clip it in place on your fabric
Sewing Techniques
For Straight Edges
- Start with a few backstitches
- Sew slowly along the edge
- Keep the lace flat as you go
- End with backstitches
For Curved Edges
- Use lots of pins to shape the curve
- Sew slowly, adjusting as needed
- Stop with the needle down when turning
Pro tip from Martha Stewart Living: “Pin your lace every 2 inches on curves to prevent puckering.”
Common Problems and Solutions
Puckering
- Cause: Too much tension
- Fix: Reduce upper thread tension
- Prevention: Use stabilizer underneath
Skipped Stitches
- Cause: Wrong needle size
- Fix: Try a smaller needle
- Prevention: Test different needle sizes first
Care Instructions
- Always follow the care label on your lace
- Use a mesh laundry bag for washing
- Air dry when possible
- Press only when needed, using low-heat
How to sew lace by hand
What You’ll Need
- Lace trim or fabric
- Sharp scissors
- Hand-sewing needles (sizes 60/8 to 70/10)
- Thread that matches your lace
- Straight pins
- Fabric for the base
- Small ruler
- Thimble (optional but helpful)
Types of Lace You Can Use
Not all lace is the same! Here are the most common types:
- Chantilly lace: Light and delicate, perfect for special occasions
- Guipure lace: Heavier and more structured
- Valencia lace: Medium weight, great for beginners
- Cotton lace: Strong and washable, ideal for practice
Basic Hand-Sewing Techniques for Lace
Preparing Your Work
Before you start sewing:
- Wash your hands to keep the lace clean
- Cut your thread to about 18 inches (45 cm)
- Choose a comfortable, well-lit spot
- Lay out your materials on a clean, flat surface
Whip Stitch (Best for Joining lace edges)
How to do it:
- Line up the edges you want to join
- Wrap the thread over both edges
- Space stitches about 1/8 inch (3mm) apart
- Pull gently – too tight, and you’ll pucker the lace
Running Stitch (Best for Attaching lace to flat fabric)
How to do it:
- Pin lace in place
- Make small, even stitches
- Keep them about 1/4 inch (6mm) apart
- Work from right to left if you’re right-handed
Tips for Success
- Always test on a scrap piece first
- Use natural light when possible
- Take breaks to rest your eyes
- Keep stitches small and even
- Don’t pull too tight – lace needs to lay flat
Common Mistakes and Solutions
- Puckered lace
- Fix: Loosen your stitches
- Prevention: Practice tension control
- Visible stitches
- Fix: Use a matching thread color
- Prevention: Choose the thread carefully before starting
- Torn lace
- Fix: Add stabilizer behind weak spots
- Prevention: Handle lace gently
Care Instructions
To make your handiwork last:
- Hand wash when possible
- Air dry flat
- Store flat or rolled, never folded
- Keep away from direct sunlight
How to sew lace hem
What You’ll Need
- Lace trim (narrow or wide, depending on your preference)
- Fabric scissors
- Straight pins
- Matching thread
- Sewing machine (or needle for hand sewing)
- Measuring tape
- Iron and ironing board
Why Add Lace to Your Hems?
Adding lace to hems isn’t just about making things pretty. According to sewing experts, lace hems can:
- Make garments last longer by protecting the edge from wear
- Add weight to light fabrics, helping them hang better
- Create an elegant finish that works for both casual and formal clothes
- Hide slightly uneven hemlines
Step-by-Step Guide
- Preparing Your Fabric
First, decide how long you want your finished piece to be. Add an extra 1/2 inch for the hem allowance. Press the hem up neatly with your iron. This gives you a clean edge to work with.
- Choosing Your Lace
Pick lace that matches your fabric weight:
- Light fabrics (like cotton voile): Use narrow lace (1/2 to 1 inch wide)
- Medium fabrics (like quilting cotton): Use medium lace (1-2 inches wide)
- Heavy fabrics (like denim): Use wider lace (2+ inches wide)
- Attaching the Lace
- Place your lace along the pressed hem
- Pin every 2-3 inches to hold it in place
- Make sure the decorative edge of the lace extends beyond your fabric edge
- Sewing Methods
You have two options:
Machine Sewing:
- Use a straight stitch close to the top edge of the lace
- Sew slowly to keep your line straight
- Back-stitch at the beginning and end
Hand Sewing:
- Use small, even stitches
- Space stitches about 1/4 inch apart
- Hide your stitches in the pattern of the lace
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t stretch the lace as you sew
- Avoid using pins too far apart
- Don’t skip pressing your hem first
- Make sure your thread matches your lace color
Do you need a special needle to sew lace?
When sewing lace, using a special needle is important to prevent damage. The wrong needle can cause skipped stitches, uneven tension, or excessive seams fraying, affecting the garment’s look and durability.
Depending on the lace type, I usually use sharp Microtex needles in sizes 60/8, 65/9, 70/10, or 75/11. Smaller needles (60/8) work well for light lace, while 75/11 is best for thick lace.
What stitch should I use to sew lace?
You can use a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, stretch stitch, or a French seam to sew lace. For non-stretch lace, I prefer a straight stitch with a shorter length (1.75 to 2) to avoid puckering.
For a zigzag stitch, set the width to 2.5 and the length to 1.5. For larger lace motifs, use a width of 3.5 and a height of 2.5. This provides flexibility and secures the lace without damaging delicate areas.
Use a French seam to encase raw edges for delicate, stretchy lace, giving a neat, fray-free finish.
What foot is best for sewing lace?
The best foot for sewing lace is generally a “lace foot” or an “open-toe foot.” These allow you to work with the delicate, often sheer, material without damaging it or getting snagged. A lace foot, for instance, has a wide slot that enables the needle to stitch close to the lace without causing excessive friction. An open-toe foot is also useful because it provides visibility and is ideal for following the lace’s natural patterns and motifs.
If you’re attaching lace trims or applying lace appliqués, a zig-zag foot can help create secure, subtle stitches that blend into the fabric. Additionally, when handling bulkier types of lace, like beaded or corded lace, a walking foot helps prevent slipping and ensures even stitching across layers, which is particularly useful for wedding gowns and formal wear.
Is lace fabric stretchy?
The answer is both Yes or No. Because the stretchiness depends on the lace type. Most common lace, such as Chantilly or Guipure, typically has little to no stretch because it’s made from cotton, silk, or other non-elastic fibers woven into intricate patterns.
However, a specific type called stretch lace is made with elastic materials like spandex or Lycra; that’s why those laces are stretched. Stretch laces are popular for fitted garments like lingerie and dress overlays, as they offer flexibility and a snug fit without losing shape.
What is the best seam finish for lace?
I think two main options work best: French seams and serged edges. French seams enclose raw edges, which prevents fraying and maintains a clean look. These seams are applied especially for lightweight or sheer lace, creating a delicate and polished finish without adding bulk. To make a French seam, start with the wrong sides together, sew a narrow seam, trim, and then enclose the raw edges with a second seam sewn with the right sides together.
Another option is serging, which works well for lace with a denser weave. When done with matching thread, it can create a neat edge without overwhelming the lace’s design. However, this may be less effective for very open lace, as the stitching can be visible through the holes.
What sewing machine needle is best for lace?
If you sew laces by sewing machine, use a fine, sharp needle (size 70/10 or 60/8) universal or Microtex (sharp) needle. Using a thin, sharp needle reduces damage and allows for smooth stitching.
Microtex needles are ideal for detailed work on lightweight fabrics like lace, creating clean stitches without pulling at the fabric. Universal needles also work well on lace, as long as they’re in a smaller size for delicate fabric handling.
In some cases, using a fine stabilizer can also help prevent the fabric from getting caught in the sewing machine plate, especially when starting stitches. If your lace is especially open or prone to shifting, clips can hold it in place better than pins. Sewing slowly and using a thin, high-quality thread helps maintain the lace’s delicate structure during sewing.
Does lace fray when cut?
Lace can fray when cut due to its delicate and open weave. Fraying occurs when the threads along the cut edges start to unravel, which is common with this type of fabric. To prevent this, using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter is helpful for a clean cut.
Additional methods, such as applying a fabric sealant or using a zigzag stitch along the edges, can also reduce fraying. For even more durability, you can sew with a narrow zigzag or overlock stitch, which helps secure the edges and prevent further unraveling.
What thread is best for lace?
For lacework, the best thread is cotton and silk. Cotton thread is durable, easy to work with, and offers a matte finish, ideal for many lace types. Silk thread is finer and provides a beautiful sheen, making it suitable for delicate and intricate designs.
Choose the thread weight based on your project; lighter threads (like size 10 or 20) work well for finer lace, while heavier threads can add more structure. Always check the pattern requirements to ensure compatibility with your chosen thread.
Conclusion
So, you got your answers, right? Laces aren’t hard to sew. You can do your job with ease by applying proper techniques and using the right needle. Thanks for reading.
Hi, I’m Safura. What are you sewing today? If you have any questions or need help with anything related to sewing, please feel free to ask. I’m always here to assist you with sewing-related issues.