Many people search on Google and want to know whether wool is hard to sew or not. Well, the answer is no; wool is not hard to sew. It’s easy to work with wool. But keep in mind that not all wool fabrics are the same. So, you need to understand the type of wool, choose the right needle, and apply the right techniques to avoid common issues like stretching and fraying.
What is wool fabric made of
Wool fabric is primarily made from the fleece of sheep and other animals, like goats (for mohair and cashmere) and alpacas. The process begins with shearing the wool from these animals, which is then cleaned, carded, and spun into yarn. The fibers in wool are naturally crimped and elastic, helping to trap air for insulation, which makes wool fabric warm and comfortable. Wool’s unique structure also makes it moisture-wicking, breathable, and naturally resistant to odors and stains.
Types of Wool fabric
Wool fabric has many categories and qualities because it is made from different animals. Here are the common types of wool fabric that we find on the market.
- Merino Wool: Known for its fine, soft texture, merino wool is lightweight and great for thermal layers, often used in outdoor clothing.
- Cashmere: Made from the undercoat of goats, cashmere is soft, warm, and luxurious. It’s commonly used in sweaters and scarves but tends to be pricier due to its fine fibers.
- Lambswool: Sourced from the first shearing of a lamb, lambswool is soft and hypoallergenic, often used in sweaters and blankets.
- Mohair: From Angora goats, mohair is durable and shiny, making it ideal for suits and blankets.
- Alpaca: Lightweight but insulating, alpaca wool is a great choice for winter wear and is often less irritating than sheep’s wool.
- Tweed: A rough, durable wool, tweed is popular for jackets and suits. It’s moisture-resistant, making it suitable for cool, damp climates.
- Flannel: This wool is brushed for a soft finish and is commonly used for warm, comfortable clothing like shirts and pajamas.
Each type of wool fabric offers specific benefits, making wool versatile for various applications in clothing and accessories.
Uses of Wool fabric
Wool fabrics are commonly used on the winter garments like coats, sweaters, suits, and scarves because it provides warmth without being bulky.
Specific types of wool fabric are used for different clothing: for example, wool flannel is popular in suits and trousers, while merino wool is often chosen for base layers and sportswear due to its softness and moisture-wicking qualities.
Wool tweed, known for its structured texture, is also commonly used in jackets and blazers.
Some carpets, rugs, and upholstery are also made with wool. Wool is also highly absorbent and resistant to static, which adds comfort to items like blankets and throws.
Wool also be used on the Industrial purpose because wool’s ability to insulate against sound and temperature makes it suitable for felting applications, such as in soundproofing materials and certain types of filter.
How to sew wool fabric (The Sewing Process)
By learning the right techniques, you can make beautiful and long-lasting wool garments.
Choosing Wool Fabric Types
Different wool fabrics work better for specific projects. Here’s a quick rundown of some options:
- Wool Jersey: A stretchable, lightweight option, good for fitted garments.
- Wool Tweed: Thick and warm, ideal for coats and jackets.
- Cashmere Wool: Soft and luxurious, often used for scarves and delicate wear.
- Wool Flannel: Perfect for nightwear or layered garments due to its softness and warmth.
Knowing the right type of wool helps ensure the success of your project, as each type has different properties like thickness and elasticity, which affect how it should be sewn and cared for
Preparing Wool Fabric for Sewing
Wool shrinks easily, so it’s essential to pre-shrink it before cutting. You can do this by placing the wool in a dryer on a low-heat cycle with a damp towel, or by steaming it carefully. This step can save you from unpleasant surprises later. Also, when working with thick wool, it’s helpful to trim bulkier areas to make seams more manageable and reduce stiffness in your garment
Essential Tools and Tips
Some basic tools and tips will make your wool sewing project easier:
- Needles: Use a ballpoint needle for knit wool fabrics, as it slips easily between fibers. For heavy wool, a larger universal needle is better.
- Thread: Polyester or silk threads work well with wool, as they’re both strong and smooth, reducing the chances of thread breakage.
- Ironing: Wool doesn’t tolerate high heat well. Use a pressing cloth to avoid shiny spots or fiber damage, and keep the iron on a low setting.
Techniques for Machine Sewing Wool
When sewing wool with a machine, use slightly longer stitches (around 2.5–3mm) to prevent puckering. For seams, consider using techniques that reduce bulk, like pinking or grading, especially for thicker fabrics. Avoid using French seams on wool, as they may add unnecessary bulk. Machine sewing helps you create strong, durable seams that handle wool’s weight well
Finishing and Caring for Wool Projects
After sewing, pressing the seams open with a pressing cloth helps wool garments lie flat and look polished. For bulky seams, trimming the inner layers can make your project more comfortable to wear. Wool should be either hand-washed or dry cleaned, as machine washing can cause shrinkage. Use a gentle detergent and air-dry wool items whenever possible to keep the fibers intact.
How to sew wool fabric by hand
I personally prefer to sew wools by hand. Because it gives me more control during sewing work. Plus I notice the mistakes easily and the cloths didn’t pucker. Here’s how to sew wools by hand.
Preparation Steps
To start, gather materials like sharp fabric scissors, quality hand-sewing needles (ideally ballpoint needles for wool), and silk or polyester thread. Wool requires careful handling because it tends to shrink, so preshrinking is crucial. You can preshrink wool by lightly steaming it with an iron or placing it in a clothes dryer with a damp towel. This prevents future shrinkage after your garment is sewn, ensuring it holds its shape better in the long run.
Techniques for Sewing Wool
Choosing the Right Needle and Thread: Use a sharp, sturdy needle to pierce through the wool’s dense fibers without snagging. Polyester or silk thread works best for hand sewing because of its strength and smoothness, though thicker threads may be suitable for more rustic or visible stitches.
Basic Hand Stitches for Wool: Backstitch and running stitch are ideal for wool. A backstitch provides strong seams, while a running stitch works well for lighter fabrics. Keep stitches evenly spaced to avoid pulling the fabric, as uneven stitches can create weak points that may rip over time.
Tips for Finishing Wool Seams
Wool can fray easily, so finishing the edges is essential for durability. Techniques like using bias binding tape or a catch stitch can prevent fraying without adding bulk. For a cleaner look, trim the inside seam allowances and press them open. Use a pressing cloth to prevent shine when ironing wool. Since wool is sensitive to heat, keep the iron at a medium temperature and avoid pressing directly on the fabric.
Common Mistakes and Solutions
Stretching: Wool can stretch if pulled or pressed too hard. To avoid this, handle it gently and avoid tugging as you sew. Adding a stay tape to edges can help keep the fabric stable, especially on areas like necklines.
Shine from Ironing: Wool fibers can develop a shiny surface if over-ironed. Using a pressing cloth and steam sparingly helps avoid this. If shine occurs, lightly steam over a damp cloth, which can help the fibers relax and reduce sheen.
How to sew heavy wool?
Preparing the Fabric
Heavy wool often needs preshrinking before sewing because it can shrink after its first wash. Preshrinking helps prevent changes in size after the project is completed. Since wool can’t always be machine washed, try steaming it or taking it to a dry cleaner if it’s labeled “dry-clean only” (SewGuide; Sewing Society). You’ll also want to lay out wool patterns carefully to match any texture or plaid patterns, and make sure to use extra fabric if needed for matching patterns.
Setting Up Your Sewing Machine
Heavy wool requires a specific needle and stitch setup. Most experts recommend using a size 90/14 or even 100/16 needle, which are sturdier and handle the thickness better than smaller needles. Adjust the stitch length to about 3.5 mm to avoid overly tight stitches that may pucker the fabric (Threads; Sew Guide). Also, use a presser foot with even pressure or a walking foot to prevent the wool from shifting as you sew.
Essential Sewing Techniques
Since heavy wool can be bulky, it’s best to trim, grade, and clip seam allowances to reduce the fabric’s thickness. Flat-felled seams are ideal for these types of fabrics because they provide durability and a finished look. Also, consider using a seam finish, like a serger, to prevent fraying.
When pressing wool seams, use a pressing cloth and steam to avoid shiny marks on the fabric. Avoid directly touching the iron to the wool, as it can create a permanent sheen that is difficult to remove (Sewing Society).
Finishing Touches for Quality
Heavy wool garments often look more professional with linings. Linings not only hide raw edges but also help the garment retain shape and prevent wear and tear. Bound buttonholes and structured collars can elevate the look of jackets and coats made with wool.
For hems and cuffs, hand-sewing may offer more control and create a clean, professional finish. Use matching thread and ensure the stitches are even and well-hidden.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping the preshrinking step: Wool can shrink unexpectedly, so always steam or preshrink before cutting.
- Using the wrong needle size: Needles that are too small or weak will break under the fabric’s weight.
- Not using a pressing cloth: Heavy wool can develop a shine when pressed directly with an iron, so a cloth helps protect the fabric’s surface.
How to press wool when sewing
When pressing wool while sewing, keep the heat low, around 300°F (148°C), and always use steam with a damp pressing cloth to protect the fabric. Avoid pressing too hard; instead, let the steam penetrate to shape the fabric gently.
For bulky areas like seams, use tools like a tailor’s ham or seam roll to prevent marks on the fabric’s surface. These tools help maintain the wool’s natural shape and prevent creases. Always test on a fabric scrap first to ensure it responds well to the temperature and steam settings.
Can I sew wool on a sewing machine?
Yes, you can sew wool on a sewing machine. However, there are a few adjustments and preparations you’ll need to make for the best results. Use the right needle—usually a size 90/14 or 80/12 for standard wool and a ballpoint or stretch needle if working with wool knits.
Adjust your stitch length to about 3-4 mm to prevent puckering, and test these settings on a scrap first to see how the machine handles the fabric. Wool can be thick, so it’s often best to finish seams with an overlock or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
Pre-shrink the wool by steaming it before sewing, as wool can shrink after washing. Using a press cloth and moderate heat when ironing can prevent the fabric from getting shiny or damaged.
Does wool tear easily?
Wool is generally very durable and does not tear easily. Its fibers are naturally elastic, allowing them to stretch and bounce back, which makes wool more resistant to tearing compared to many other fabrics.
Wool fibers are coiled and can bend thousands of times before breaking, providing resilience against regular wear. However, wool is weaker when wet, which can make it more prone to damage in damp conditions
Wool’s durability also depends on the type, as thicker wools used for outerwear are more tear-resistant than finer, softer types used for lightweight garments.
Which needle to sew wool?
Ballpoint needle, Universal Needle, and Jersey Needle are suitable for sewing wool fabric. Otherwise your cloth will be pucker. Here is the needle size consideration.
When choosing a needle size for sewing wool:
Size 100/16 or larger: Recommended for heavy wool fabrics
Size 70/10 to 80/12: Generally suitable for lightweight wools.
Size 90/14: Works well for medium-weight wools.
What is the best stitch for wool?
For wool projects, the blanket stitch is generally one of the best options due to its ability to handle thick fabrics while providing a neat edge. This stitch is especially popular for wool appliqué and felted wool, as it gives a sturdy, decorative edge that holds well with wool’s natural texture and bulk
Another good choice is the whip stitch, which is simple and works well to join wool pieces, particularly in crafts. For standard seams, a straight stitch with a slightly longer length (such as 3.0 mm) is recommended for heavy wool, as it helps prevent fabric puckering
Can I embroider with wool?
Yes, you can embroider with wool, which works well for both hand and machine embroidery. Wool threads are thicker than traditional embroidery threads, which adds texture and dimension to your designs.
For hand embroidery, wool is great for creating raised effects, bold outlines, and textured fills. Some common stitches for wool embroidery include chain stitches, French knots, and satin stitches, which highlight the yarn’s thickness and plush feel.
Using a needle with a large eye is essential to accommodate wool’s thickness, and sturdy fabrics like linen or denim handle the weight of wool well.
How to finish wool edges
To finish wool edges, you have several effective techniques depending on the look and durability you want:
Blanket Stitch: This hand-stitched method uses a tapestry needle and wool yarn to create a decorative, durable edge. Fold the wool edge slightly, then use the blanket stitch along the fold to secure it. This method is popular for wool blankets, giving a classic look and preventing fraying.
Binding with Bias Tape: Attach bias-cut fabric strips around the wool’s edge. This approach is useful for structured edges, like on garments, because the bias tape curves smoothly around the edge. You can stitch this by hand or with a sewing machine.
Serger or Overlock Finish: A serger trims and stitches the wool edge simultaneously. This is quick and effective for clean, finished edges, especially on thicker wool fabrics used in outerwear.
Faced Edge: Sew an extra piece of fabric (called facing) to the wool edge, fold it over, and stitch it down. This technique is common in tailored garments and provides a clean, reinforced finish.
Conclusion
In conclusion, Wool is not hard to sew. Some wool fabrics, like boiled wool and felt, are more beginner-friendly due to their stability and reduced fraying. However, heavier or highly textured wool types, like tweed or melton, can be challenging because they require precise stitching and can be bulky to handle on a sewing machine.
Using a medium-sized, sharp needle and longer stitches helps avoid gathering and thread breakage. Pre-treating wool by steaming or light washing can also prevent unexpected shrinkage after sewing. Ultimately, while wool may take some practice, it offers a durable and versatile option for various projects
Hi, I’m Safura. What are you sewing today? If you have any questions or need help with anything related to sewing, please feel free to ask. I’m always here to assist you with sewing-related issues.