Is It Hard To Sew Leather? Explained

Yes, it is hard for beginners to sew leather fabric. However, it’s not as difficult as you might think. It’s a tough fabric made from tanned animal skins, but you can easily sew it if you choose the right needle and apply the proper technique.

For machine sewing, use bonded nylon thread and a wedge point needle (sizes 65/9, 70/10, or 80/12). For hand sewing, choose a sharp, straight needle (sizes 2/0 to 4/0) and aim for seven stitches per inch, which is about 3.8 millimeters in stitch length.

What is Leather fabric made of

Leather fabric is made of the hide or skin of animals like cows, goats, sheep, and pigs. It’s a long process to turn animal skins into a fabric. Here I the making process in short.

At first, they collect animal hide or skin from the meat industry. Then, they cleaned to remove any blood, dirt, or hair. This helps prepare the skin for the tanning process.

Chromium salts make the leather soft and flexible during tanning, typically taking a few days. After tanning, the leather is dried using air or machines, and any excess skin and imperfections are trimmed away.

Leather can be dyed in various colors through soaking or surface treatment. A protective coating is often added for durability and resistance to water and stains. Finally, oils or waxes are applied to keep the leather supple, which may be polished for shine.

Where does leather fabric make

Leather fabrics are produced in China, the largest leather producer, and are known for their vast manufacturing capabilities and wide variety of leather goods. Leather fabric is also made in Italy, India, Brazil, and the United States.

Types of Leather Fabric

There are several types of leather fabric available on the market. The most famous type is full-grain leather. Other options include top-grain leather, genuine leather, and bonded leather.

Full-grain leather is used to make luxury handbags and some premium footwear.

Top-grain leather is used to make clothes, jackets, pants, etc. This leather is softer and more pliable than full-grain. Top grains are also used to make Handbags and wallets.

Genuine leather is a cheap leather and made from leftover pieces. This type of leather is used in wallets and belts.

Bonded leather is used on accessories such as phone cases and small bags.

Why Is Leather Hard To Sew

The leather fabric is hard to sew because it’s a hard and thick fabric. The regular needles won’t work on this fabric, and a wedge point needle is needed to sew it.

Additionally, leather can stretch and shift while you sew, causing uneven stitches. The oils in leather can also make it slippery, making it harder to hold in place.

However, using the right tools and techniques can make sewing leather easier and more enjoyable!

How to sew leather by machine

In this part, I’ll provide detailed instructions on how to sew a leather fabric from start to finish. Let’s start.

What You’ll Need

• A heavy-duty sewing machine. You can use this  SINGER Heavy Duty 4423 High-Speed Sewing Machine.
• Leather needles (sizes 90/14 to 110/18)
• Polyester thread or waxed thread
• Walking foot attachment
• Leather clips (not pins!)
• Sharp scissors or rotary cutter
• Rubber mallet
• Leather glue (optional)

Getting Your Machine Ready

Pick the Right Machine

Not all sewing machines can handle leather. Here’s what works best:

• For thin leather (1-2 oz): Most home machines with adjustable pressure.
• For medium leather (3-4 oz): Semi-industrial machines.
• For thick leather (5+ oz): Industrial machines.

Machine Settings

1. Stitch length: Set it longer (3-4 mm)
2. Thread tension: Slightly looser than normal
3. Pressure: Lighter than for regular fabric
4. Speed: Keep it slow and steady

Preparing Your Leather

Testing First

Always test on a scrap piece! Different leathers behave differently:

• Chrome-tanned leather: Easier to sew
• Vegetable-tanned leather: Tougher but more natural
• Suede: Can be tricky due to texture

Marking and Cutting

• Use a white pencil or silver pen
• Never use pins – they leave permanent holes
• Cut with very sharp scissors or a rotary cutter
• Keep cuts straight and clean

Sewing Techniques

The Basic Stitch

1. Place leather smooth side up
2. Use clips to hold pieces together
3. Start slow and keep the leather flat
4. Guide gently – don’t push or pull

Common Problems and Solutions

Skipped Stitches?

• Change to a fresh needle
• Check if the needle is the right size
• Adjust thread tension

Leather Sticking?

• Put matte tape on the machine’s foot
• Use a Teflon foot
• Rub wax paper on the bottom of the leather

During Sewing, Safety Is a MUST

• Always wear safety glasses
• Keep fingers away from the needle
• Use proper leather working gloves when handling sharp tools

Common Mistakes to Avoid!

• Using regular thread (it breaks easily)
• Sewing too fast
• Starting with expensive leather
• Skipping test runs
• Using regular fabric needles

Care and Maintenance

• Clean your machine after each leather project
• Oil the machine more frequently
• Change needles often
• Keep leather scraps for testing

How to sew leather by hand

Hand sewing is the traditional way to sew leather fabrics. While machines can sew leather faster, hand-sewing gives you more control and creates stronger seams that can last up to 20 years longer than machine stitching, according to experienced leatherworkers.

I would suggest that beginners use a sewing machine instead of hand sewing, as leather fabric differs from other fabric types. Here is the step-by-step process:

What You’ll Require

• Sharp leather needles (size 4-6)
• Waxed thread (0.8mm-1mm thick)
• Leather hole punch or awl
• Stitching groover (optional)
• Cutting board
• Sharp utility knife
• Ruler or measuring tape
• Beeswax
• Leather clips or bulldog clips
• A sturdy work surface

First, Understand The Leather Types

Before you start sewing, you need to know your leather:

• Full-grain leather: The strongest type, keeping all-natural grain
• Top-grain leather: Second highest quality, slightly thinner
• Split leather: Less durable but easier to sew
• Bonded leather: Most affordable but hardest to hand-sew

Thick leather (over 4oz or 1.6mm) needs special preparation before sewing. Thinner leather (2-3oz) is best for beginners.

Preparing Your Work

1. Mark your stitching line with a pencil
2. Use a stitching groover to create a channel (this protects your stitches)
3. Punch holes using an awl or leather punch
4. Space holes 1/8 inch apart for strength
5. Keep consistent spacing using a wing divider

Start From Basic Hand-Stitching Methods

Saddle Stitch (Stitch Method Name)

The saddle stitch is the strongest handstitch for leather. Tests show it’s 4 times stronger than a machine lock stitch.

Steps:

1. Thread two needles on opposite ends of your thread
2. Push both needles through the first hole from opposite sides
3. Continue through each hole, maintaining even tension
4. Back-stitch the last three holes for security

Running Stitch

It’s faster but less strong than the saddle stitch. Best for decorative work or non-stress areas.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using too thick thread (causes large holes)
• Inconsistent tension
• Skipping the waxing step
• Punching holes too close to the edges

Tips from Master Leatherworkers

Master craftsman Joe Meling shares:

“The biggest mistake beginners make is rushing. Take your time with each stitch – speed comes with practice.”

Sarah Chen, a leather artisan with 15 years of experience, suggests:

“Always test your stitching pattern on scrap leather first. It’s better to make mistakes on scraps than your project.”

Care Instructions

• Keep leather away from direct heat
• Clean stitches with a soft brush
• Apply leather conditioner yearly
• Store items in a cool, dry place

Safety Is MUST

• Always cut away from yourself
• Keep fingers away from punch points
• Work in a well-lit area
• Keep tools sharp (dull tools cause accidents)

Can I sew leather on a regular sewing machine?

Yes, you can sew top-grain or any thin or soft leather with a regular sewing machine, but it’s not recommended. Use heavy-duty sewing machines for better stitching. If you don’t have a heavy-duty sewing machine, you can try using your regular sewing machine with a few adjustments.

Use a leather needle (size 18-21) and a Teflon or roller foot to help the material move easily and avoid stitching issues.

Longer stitch lengths are better because short ones can weaken the leather and cause it to tear.

For thick or multi-layer leather, an industrial machine is more effective. It has the power needed for strong stitching without breaking needles or getting stuck.

Is it hard to sew leather without a machine?

Yes, it is hard to sew leather without using any machine. Because the leather doesn’t “heal” if you make a mistake, each hole is permanent. But if you have enough patience and use the right tools, then it’s easy.

Beginners often use awls or stitching chisels to pre-punch holes, making it easier to stitch by hand, although maintaining consistent spacing and straight lines is difficult for those new to the craft.

Is it hard to sew a leather jacket?

Yes, it is hard to sew a leather jacket. Leather is thick and lacks flexibility, so sewing requires a specialized leather needle and heavy-duty thread to avoid skipped stitches and ensure durability. Additionally, use clips or adhesives instead of pins, as they hold pieces in place without puncturing the material.

Experts suggest adjusting the sewing machine settings, such as increasing stitch length and reducing tension, to accommodate leather’s density. Practicing on scrap leather also helps refine technique before working on a full jacket.

Decorative leather stitching

What is Decorative Leather Stitching

Decorative leather stitching is fancy leather needlework that creates beautiful patterns and designs. It enhances the elegance of leather items and adds a handmade, personal touch. It also joins pieces of leather together, strengthening the leather item.

Types of Decorative Stitches

The Basic Ones

• Saddle Stitch – Like a strong braid made of thread
• Cross Stitch – Makes tiny X patterns
• Running Stitch – Looks like a dotted line
• Box Stitch – Creates perfect little squares

Fancy Patterns

• Celtic Knot – Swirly patterns that look like old Irish designs
• Diamond Pattern – Makes rows of little diamonds
• Basket Weave – Looks like a tiny woven basket
• Wave Pattern – Creates flowing lines like ocean waves

How to cross-stitch leather

What is Cross Stitch

A cross stitch is a sewing or embroidery stitch that creates little “X” shapes. Imagine drawing an X – that’s exactly what this stitch looks like! Each stitch is made by crossing one diagonal line over another. Crossstitch is one of the oldest types of embroidery in the world. It’s been found in clothing and household items from ancient Egypt! Today, people use it to:

• Make pictures of fabric
• Create decorative patterns
• Make samplers (pieces that show letters and numbers)
• Decorate clothes
• Make holiday decorations

How to cross stitch on leather

Picking the Right Leather

Not all leather works well for cross-stitching. The best leather for cross stitching are:

• Vegetable-tanned leather (most popular, used by 78% of leather crafters)
• Chrome-tanned leather (more flexible but harder to punch holes)
• Split leather (good for beginners)

Avoid suede or very soft leather, as they can stretch and make your stitches uneven.

These Tools Are Required

• Leather piece (2-3 oz weight recommended)
• Leather needle (size 4/8)
• Waxed thread
• Hole punch tool
• Ruler and pencil
• Design pattern
• Sharp scissors
• Leather conditioner

Creating Your Pattern

Before you start punching holes, you need a clear pattern. Many leather crafters (about 65%) prefer:

1. Drawing the pattern with a pencil first
2. Making dots where holes should go
3. Spacing holes 1/8 inch apart for clean looks

Remember: Once you punch a hole, you can’t undo it!

Punching Techniques

Three main ways to punch your holes:

Diamond Chisel Method (preferred by 55% of crafters)

• Creates even spacing
• Faster than single holes
• Best for straight lines

Single Hole Punch (used by 35% of crafters)

• More control
• Better for curves
• Takes longer

Stitching Machine Method (used by 10% of crafters)

• Most expensive
• Very precise
• Best for large projects

Stitching Steps

• First, you make one diagonal line (like this: /)
• Then you cross over it with another diagonal line going the other way (to make: X)
• When you make many X’s in rows, they create a pattern

Think of cross stitch like pixel art in real life – each X is like one pixel, and when you put many together, they form pictures or patterns. It’s like creating art with tiny X’s instead of paint or crayons.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Pulling too tight (causes leather to pucker)
2. Uneven hole spacing
3. Using the wrong thread thickness
4. Skipping the pattern drawing step
5. Not conditioning leather after stitching

Maintaining Your Work

After finishing:

1. Clean with leather cleaner
2. Apply leather conditioner
3. Store flat
4. Keep away from direct sunlight

What stitch is best for leather?

I preferred to saddle stitch on leather, and it works very well. This stitch is created by passing two needles through each hole from opposite sides of the leather, forming a lock that secures the thread tightly.

The saddle stitch is especially popular for items like wallets and belts that experience frequent wear because it holds even if one part of the thread breaks, making it extremely strong compared to other stitches.

Many leather crafters recommend using waxed linen thread for saddle stitching, as it resists fraying and helps the stitches hold firmly, while beeswax adds extra strength to the thread​.

Conclusion

Sewing leather can be rewarding with the right tools and techniques. Though challenging due to its thickness, machine, and hand sewing can produce beautiful results. By learning about leather types and stitching methods, beginners can create durable, stylish items. With practice and patience, anyone can master leather sewing.